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Grading English hammered coins

A hammered coin was struck by hand between two dies, on a blank somebody cut with shears. Almost everything that makes grading milled coins straightforward is missing, and the single commonest mistake is to mark a coin down for something the mint did in 1247.

Last updated 6 September 2026

Why hammered coins are graded differently

English hammered coinage runs from the seventh century to 1662. For all of that time a coin was made the same way: a blank was cut from a hammered sheet of silver, laid on a fixed lower die, topped with an upper die, and hit with a hammer. Every step of that is done by eye and by hand, and the coin records all of it.

The consequence for grading is that two coins in identical condition can look very different. One was struck squarely with a fresh die on a round flan; the other was struck off-centre with a die that had been in use for six months, on a blank that was slightly too small. Neither has been in anybody’s pocket. Grade is a statement about wear — about metal lost after the coin left the mint — and on a hammered coin you have to see past a great deal of noise to find it.

That is why the useful description of a hammered coin is usually three facts rather than one: the grade, the quality of the strike, and the state of the flan. A dealer’s “VF, well struck, full round flan” is not padding. It is three independent things, and a coin can be good at any one and poor at the others.

G
F
VF
EF
UNC
The same hammered penny at five grades. Detail is lost from the highest relief downwards — the crown and the hair go first, then the face, while the outline of the bust survives almost anything. Drawn rather than photographed, deliberately — the photographs below show the same progression on real coins, where the die, the strike and the tone all change too.

Groat, Mary (1553–4), mintmark Pomegranate · S.2492

Fair — obverse of the coin described alongside
Fair · Poor£50, 7 September 2025Bent and straightened. The portrait is a silhouette; the mark is gone.London Coins, auction 190, lot 1119
VG — obverse of the coin described alongside
VG · Good£65, 1 March 2015The bust is an outline, but the legend can still be read round most of the coin.London Coins, auction 148, lot 1509
Fine — obverse of the coin described alongside
Fine£85, 5 September 2021The crown survives, the face is flat, the legend is complete. This is Fine.London Coins, auction 174, lot 1086
VF — obverse of the coin described alongside
VF · Very Fine£400, 7 June 2020Hair, crown and necklace all separate, on a full round flan. Five times the Fine.London Coins, auction 169, lot 1189
The same argument in photographs: one Mary groat type, four grades, four real sales. Note what the drawing above cannot tell you — that the Fair coin has been bent and straightened, that the VF has a full round flan, and that the difference between them is a factor of eight in money. Hammered coins above VF are scarce enough that the archive holds none of this type in EF without a serious fault, which is itself the most useful fact on this page.

Striking weakness is not wear

This is the distinction to learn first, because getting it wrong in either direction costs money. Weakness and wear both remove detail. They do not remove it the same way.

Weak strikeWear
Where it isOne area, often on both faces in the same place — the metal did not fill the die there. Frequently one side of the coin only.Everywhere the coin stands proud, evenly across the whole face.
What it looks likeDetail is shallow but the edges of it are still sharp. The design is faint rather than rounded off.Detail is rounded. High points are flat and slightly polished, with soft edges where a sharp one used to be.
The give-awayFine detail survives in the low ground right next to the missing bit — a weakly struck bust can sit beside a crisp legend.The highest points went first and the field is untouched. Wear never skips a high point to take a low one.

Tilt the coin under a single light source and turn it. Wear catches the light as a flat, slightly shiny plateau. A weak strike does not — it stays matte and low, and the surrounding surface is undisturbed.

A weakly struck EF is still an EF

Weakness is described, not deducted. “EF but weak on the reverse cross” is the honest note and it is what the coin is worth being sold as. Grading it down to VF because the reverse looks soft tells the next owner it has been in circulation, which is not true and is not what they will see when it arrives.

The flan: full, clipped, chipped, creased

The blank is the second independent axis. Hammered blanks were cut by hand, so an irregular outline is normal and not a fault. What is a fault is metal that has been removed or damaged since.

Full flanThe whole legend is on the coin.
ClippedSilver cut from the edge. Damage, not wear — grade it separately.

Where wear shows first

The order is the same as on any coin — the highest relief goes first — but on a hammered portrait the high points are in specific and slightly unexpected places, because the portrait is a facing bust rather than a profile for most of the series.

1234
  1. 1The crown. Struck highest and worn first. On a Short Cross or Long Cross penny the fleurs and the band lose definition long before anything else.
  2. 2The face. The nose and cheekbones. On a facing bust the whole face is one plateau, so once it starts to go it goes evenly and quickly — this is the main thing separating Fine from Very Fine.
  3. 3The hair and beard. Fine punches in medium relief. Their survival is what usually distinguishes a good VF from an EF, and they are also the first thing a weak strike removes — check the other side before deciding which it is.
  4. 4The legend and beaded border. The lowest relief and the last to wear. A legend that is complete and sharp on a coin with a flat face means wear is less advanced than it looks, and probably means the face was weakly struck.

On the reverse, most of the series is some form of cross. The centre of the cross and the pellets in the quarters are the high points; the outer legend, again, is the last thing to go. A worn reverse cross on a sharp obverse is very often a strike issue rather than a wear one, because the cross sits opposite the bust and the two compete for the same metal.

The grades, and what they mean here

British collectors grade adjectivally — Fine, Very Fine, Extremely Fine — and dealers slice those finer with prefixes (nVF for nearly, gVF for good, meaning better than). Slabbed coins arrive with a Sheldon number instead, and CGS UK uses a scale of its own that runs to 100. They are not interchangeable, and the table below is how this catalogue reconciles them.

The four grading systems this catalogue understands, on one ladder. Sheldon and CGS numbers are advisory — they exist to sort coins and to choose comparable auction lots, not to state a fact about a coin.
GradeBritish termsSlab / AmericanSheldonCGS UK
PoorPoorFairGood Fair151–6
Good (G)GoodVGnFAbout Fine6117–11
Fine (F)FineGood FineChoice FineCh FGF121912–19
Very Fine (VF)nVFA/VFAbout VFVFGood VFGVFChoice VFCh VF203920–39
Extremely Fine (EF)nEFA/EFAbout EFEFGood EFGEFChoice EFXFChoice XFCh XF405540–55
Near Uncirculated (nUNC)A/UNCAU/UncaUNCnUNCChoice AUCh AU565956–62
Uncirculated (UNC)UNCGUNCGood UNCnFDCPractically FDCFDCMSChoice MSCh MSSuperb MS607063–100

Two warnings about that table, both of which matter more on hammered coins than on milled. The numbers are advisory: they exist to sort a collection and to pick comparable auction lots, and dealers disagree by several points on any of them. And the Sheldon scale was designed for early American large cents — machine-struck coins with consistent strikes — so it describes a hammered penny only loosely. The adjective is the real grade; the number is a filing system.

What each grade actually looks like on a hammered coin

GradeOn a hammered penny or groat
Fair / PoorIdentifiable as a coin of the series and probably as a reign, and not much more. Legend mostly gone. These are collected for rarity or as a filler for a reign nobody can afford in better condition, and that is a perfectly respectable reason.
Good (G)Type and reign clear. The bust is an outline; the crown is a shape rather than a crown. Some of the legend readable, often enough to place the mint if you are lucky with which part survived.
Fine (F)The whole design is there and readable, worn evenly. Face flat but present, crown outlined, most of the legend legible. This is the commonest grade for medieval English silver and is a perfectly good collectable coin.
Very Fine (VF)Detail within the design survives: eyes and nose distinct, crown ornaments separate, hair or beard visible as more than a mass. Legend complete where the flan allows. Light even wear on the highest points only.
Extremely Fine (EF)Only the very highest points touched. Fine punch detail — individual hair strands, the pellets in the crown, the beading — all present and sharp. On hammered coinage this is scarce, and for many reigns and mints it effectively does not exist.
Near Uncirculated / UncirculatedNo wear at all — the coin never circulated. Almost always from a hoard. Note that an uncirculated hammered coin can still be badly struck, off-centre and on a ragged flan, because none of those are wear. “As struck” is the honest phrase and it does not promise a good-looking coin.

Faults that are not grade

Each of these is recorded separately from the grade, because each affects value independently and a single adjective cannot carry them.

Groat, Mary (1553–4), mintmark Pomegranate · S.2492

GVF — obverse of the coin described alongside
GVF£600, 6 March 2016Good VF, evenly toned, no fault worth writing down. Slabbed at CGS 50.London Coins, auction 152, lot 1978
EF — reverse of the coin described alongside
EF£130, 8 March 2026The obverse portrait is EF. This is the other side: porous, damaged, ragged.London Coins, auction 192, lot 825
Two groats of the same type, and the reason faults are recorded separately. The first is a Good VF with even tone and nothing to write down. The second was catalogued for a “stunning portrait” at EF detail — a full grade better — and this is its reverse: porous, damaged and ragged at the edge. The better-graded coin made a fifth of the money. Grade is one of four things you are describing, and on a hammered coin it is often not the one that decides the price.

How to write it down

The description a hammered coin deserves is short and has four parts, in this order: grade, strike, flan, faults. For example — “gVF, well struck, full round flan, light porosity”, or “F, weak on the crown, clipped with about two-thirds of the legend, otherwise sound”.

That is the shape this catalogue records too. A coin carries one grade from the ladder above, with the strike, the flan and any faults written into the notes where they belong — rather than being smuggled into the grade, where the next person cannot tell them apart. If you also know the mint, that goes in as its own fact: it is worked out from the initial mark and the legend, and there is a separate guide to doing that and a tool that will do most of it for you.

The photographs on this page are catalogue images from London Coins, reproduced here to illustrate grading and credited individually with the sale and lot they come from. Each caption links to that house’s own record of the sale. The prices are what those particular coins made on those particular days — evidence of a market, not a price guide, and no guide to what yours is worth. The line drawings elsewhere on this page are ours.

The mark, legend and mint-signature tables behind this page are compiled from the reference tables published by Paul A Shields at psdetecting.com, cross-checked against Spink and North. The mint marks on this page are drawn by us rather than copied — the charges themselves are medieval and belong to nobody. Grades are advisory: dealers disagree by several points, and no number here should be read as a valuation.